Sunday, December 31, 2006

Getting my house ready


This is a sample of the traditional bag the sell in my site. This artisan group just received money from and NGO to build a house to sell, and distribute the wares.

This is my buddy Jose Carlos. I like him because he´s cute, nice and has my own name. He has been really sick recently and not had any appetite. What he does eat he usually throws up. He also has much skin peeling off his legs and arms. It looks like his legs are dirty but thats what it actually is. I think he has a vitamin deficiency and some sort of stomach parasite. If anyone else wants to diagnose feel free.


After I had set up my bed, mosquito net, all my clothes, and put up wall decorations, I found out that MINSA, the ministry of health is coming to Valle to spray every house for Malaria. This meant that I had to take everything out of my house, so the guys could come in and spray down the walls. A year the was a Malaria outbreak, and now every 3 months they come to fumigate the houses, until the community tests completely negative for Malaria.

Me with a friend's pet parrot.

The fumigating man, and my 75 cent Panama hat.

For new years the burn a doll, I´m not exactly sure why but I know its a tradition.

Here is the label of the fumigant, kinda scary stuff, but at least I don´t have mosquitoes in my house. I heard before they sprayed, ants were everywhere in houses, and the mosquitoes were much worse. Now there are rarely any mosquitoes, only at dusk by the swamp. Below is the residue left over from spraying, you can see where a piece of paper was on the ground.

Now that I am no longer sharing my house with the teacher, I have started making some improvements. There was a bunch of lumber and palm fronds to build a new rood being stored under my house. I moved them further under my house so no you can hang out below my house, and play marbles, are a number of other games. While moving all this material we found several animals. First 2 rats ran out from underneath.


This duck had made its home, under the palm fronds and was sitting on all her eggs. We moved her and the eggs to a new house under the new pile of wood.
This huge toad was also under there.

There are several of the land crabs that live in mud and eat insects.

Merry Christmas!

Well I ended up being Santa Clause for the Christmas Eve party in my community. I went into Changuinola and bought 3 yards of red cloth and cotton, as well as various other parts of the costume one of the several tailors in town made the whole costume for me.
Christmas Eve ended up being quiet the day. I went into the city to buy all the sand for our aqueduct. I rode back to my town in the sand truck with a cracked windshield and a holes in the floor. I was skeptical that it would be able to climb the hills to my town. The truck ended up stalling on the steepest hill, and we rolled backwards with out no motor. That was probably the scariest moment I´ve had in Panama, as I knew if the driver cut the wheel too hard either way we would either crash into the rock side of the mountain or roll down the side. When we got to the bottom he went to raise the hydraulic lift to dump some sand out so we could climb the hill and practically dumped all if it out. We spent about 45 minutes shoveling it back into the bed in the blazing sun.
I arrived showered and immediately needed to get ready for Santa. I was helped by several members of my family, they assembled my beard and ran around and tied up the last parts of the costume. The plan was for me to sneak behind the stage then pop out with the bag of presents, but as I was sneaking up all the kids saw me. I started shouting HO HO HO and all the kids came running out of the awning area. The rest of the time a gave out the presents to all the kids and sweat profusely.
There was an annual Christmas volleyball game of the older guys vs the younger guys. This is the winning team, with their $40 winnings from the game.


This is Santa and Momerto who made the costume, for never making anything more that pants and uniform shirts he did a great job, I´m only lacking my glasses in this picture. Momerto is probably one of my better adult friends, he is always hanging out at my host family´s house and is in the foto of the winning team in yellow shirt.
There apparently was a Ngobe Tri-Delt at the Christmas party! Crazy!
This is the first stages of the Santa beard, with Juanita.

Santa actually at the party. Many kids were terrified of me, I think because they had never seen Santa in person, but for the most part the were all mystified. Either they didn´t know it was me or they all just couldn´t believe I dressed up like that.


More hot Volleyball action. These guys are really good, I can´t even compete with them.

Thursday, December 21, 2006

Graduacion

This week was Graduation at the school in town. It was a pretty big deal in town, and the parents group really came together. Here is a bunch of photos from that.
The head table with representatives from the Ministry of Education, the school directors.
(Prevent Dengue)
There have been many problems with Dengue fever in Panama city, and some of the other cities but it hasn´t really effected the rural people in the campo. There is not enough standing water here to cause much mosquitoes. In general the mosquitoes aren´t bad at all here, only when I´m near the swamp at night to do I ever get bit.
All the graduates. You can also see how many people came out to see the graduations in the back outside the roof.



This food is for the dinner of graduation which was Monday. There was tons of rice chicken and potato salad. Quiet a feast when you used to boiled bananas. All this food is cooked in the school kitchen, which is really just a shack with a few large fireplaces.



This roofing was constructed by the Padres de Familia. It was in the middle of the courtyard of the school. People sat at the tables and desk chairs of the school.




I was hanging out around the outside of the tables, because I didn´t have any one in my family graduate, and was about ready to leave when the assistant director of the school invited me to sit at the head table! It was pretty cool, being up there, but I also felt like I was eating under a microscope because everyone was looking at me.



This guys name is Jose too, he is my cousin. The ice cream man occasionally comes to town. He rolls on a motorcycle with a cooler strapped to the back. Pineapple orange ice cream cones like this are only 25 cents.


Ochoa and Betti in cafe. You need to leave the coffee beans out in the sun to dry them, and I guess they just decided to sit in it.
Ochoa!
All the mountains around my site look like this.


These are the neighbors in my hammock, they come over some times to draw pictures or just hang out.
The other day in preparation for Christmas I went out to clear the jungle to make a cow pasture. Our neighbor hood was going to receive $100, for all this work. Using the machete is really fun, it works really well. I was cutting down everything from ferns, to serious vines to 3" thick trees. I think I gained alot of respect from the men in my part of town. I ended up with some blisters on my hand and cuts from thorns. On my back in this picture I have my sheath made out of a flattened peace of PVC pipe. And yes I know I have lost alot of weight, I look real skinny in this picture huh?



Sunday, December 10, 2006

Update on address

This is the city closest to me, this has to go through to Panama post office then accross the country to this one. This is the least reliable but I check the most frequently, great for letters and packages of little value.

Joe Goessling
Cuerpo de Paz - Panama
Entrega General, Changuinola
Changuinola, Republica de Panama

This is probably the best bet for all other mail. This city is about 5 hours away and I go maybe once a month, it is more secure than the above address, but still not as good as the Panama City address.

Joe Goessling
Cuerpo de Paz - Panama
Entrega General, David
Chiriqui, Republica de Panama

Dia de La Madre and tons of Pictures

So, I finally ran out of room on my camera, so I decided to dump tons of photos on here. Hopefully you´ll get a better idea of my site, my family and what we did for mothers day.

I took this morning as I was leaving my site. Down below is the Valley where my town is. You can really see how the mist stays in town until the sun really comes out to burn it all off. This is why it gets so cold at night and continues in the morning. Sometimes I where I sweatshirt in the morning. This morning for my ride to the city I tumbla un maderina, (knocked an orange out of the tree) in my front yard. I also brought a cacao fruit, this may not have been the best idea because the shell is thick and heavy. Cacao is kinda like a pumpkin in that it has a really think outside and seeds on the inside. I like to just suck on the seeds on the inside as a snack.


This is my brother Justin next to the Cacao that is drying in the sun. In order to make chocolate you have to sun dry it, then roast it then, grind it then cook it again and add sugar milk vanilla or whatever. This isn´t even like real chocolate its just what the make hot chocolates with here.

These are my two host sisters, Juanita (left) and Josmira or Betti (right). (Betti´s father is latino so she has much longer eyelashes and curly hair.) For mothers day we cooked up spaghetti with spam, as a topping for boiled bananas. You can see pretty much all the ingredients that we used behind on the shelf/board on the wall.

This is Lucindo, he´s my one of my counterparts sons. He is wearing the traditional Ngobe bag called a chacara. These come in literally all sizes. Some are big enough to haul 100 lbs bags of cement, while others are as small a change purses and are warn like a shoulder bag. Lucindo had a chacara full of bananas because he was coming back from the finca (farm). He also had a really colorful bird on a string.

This is a big hydroelectric dam that I go over every time I cross the mountains to the big city of David. They are planning on building a dam like this on a river relatively near my site. The dam company is pumping tons of money into the community as part of their ¨social outreach¨. For example they have probably purchased the soccer teams jersey for the past 4 years, and also they bought a truck for the junta comunal (town committee). This has good intentions but from a sustainable point of view it is not the best. Who will pay when the truck breaks, who buys the gas? etc.


Juanita is cooking up the chicken that was a gift to the mothers eating in our house that day. You can see here the fogon. This is 3 rocks used to create a tripod that and wood put in between. Usually they light it with matches and a plastic bag. Its horrible for the environment and our lungs but it works great. You can also see the big white water tank that the family uses when the water goes out. The water goes out when we havn´t had rain for a few days in a row.

These are all the madres that we cooked for. From the left is a house guest who I don´t know, my mom Elvira, my sister Lucy, and my aunt Ines. We made fried rice. I got the recipe out of the PC Panama cookbook which is written by volunteers, its really helpful in utilizing the ingredients you can get out in your site.

This is my host mom and her daughter Lucy, who is also a mom. They are putting the dried cacao back in the sack to grind later. You can also see my bedroom window in the back round.

I don´t even know this little guy´s name. But he was at the mothers day celebration in a full USA soccer kit.

This is Juanita and my grandma Nena. She isn´t sure how old she is but best guesses are in mid 70´s to 80´s. She has a really bad knee that she can´t bend, and walks everywhere with a cane (stick). Walking causes her tons of pain but occasionally she walks the 15 minutes to the finca to pick coffee.

This is the official mothers day celebration for my part of town. The men built this building with the blue tarp awning, they also cooked bought presents and organized activities. You can see the girl in the pink with the traditional Panamanian hat singing a Decima song she wrote about mothers day, while the two other guys played guitar.

After each gift was announced the giver kissed the receiver. This is my neighbor Berto. I´m working with him on a side project because he wants to write a book in the Ngobe dialect on natural medicine and dyes. He believes that as the culture from away diffuses into town that the traditional knowledge will be lost. I´m helping him find a similar book in Spanish he can use as a guide.

Pinata! This is actually just a decorated box. It is tied together really well and full of candy as well as flour. It was hilarious when it exploded, everyone was covered in flour. The women are usually very reserved but when it burst open it was a free for all. It may also have been because there was dollar bills inside too.

Here are all the fathers that cooked (or allegedly cooked) food for everyone. There is chicha (juice) rice and chicken.

All the moms from my part of town that participated. I think there was a total of 3 of these parties thrown around town, and they are planning a similar event for Christmas.



Victor singing songs he wrote for the mothers. My neighbor Eberto, has two guitars and when I have free time I want to learn the traditional strumming patterns.



Ebertos son Inel giving his mom a present.




Jam Tracks of Panama

Hey everyone in case it was any surprise Panamanians love their music. In my community people commonly walk around with a simple AM/FM radio around their neck and music playing, sometimes even larger ones almost like ghetto blasters. Its just like being on a college campus with all the ipods.
Popular music here includes tipica which features an accordion. You can listen here http://www.cduniverse.com/search/xx/music/pid/6852747/a/Dale+Donde+Mas+Le+Duela.htm
That is Samy y Sandra Sandoval, they are probably the most famous Tipica singers still performing, they are brother and sister.
Other music they play alot is reggaeton, and occasionally reggae. They also have Decima which is to guys singing back at forth at each other. Kinda like a freestyle rap battle. They also occasionally bark like dogs back and forth. Its really hard to explain but hilarious to listen to. I don´t quiet know enough Spanish and slang to understand the majority but I like what i do understand.

So when I do listen to my crank powered radio I listen to a station that plays alot of American music, because its a touch of home. They really like the 80's here. I started writing down some of the songs I heard. Here is goes.

Junior Senior - Don´t stop the beat
Matisyahu - king without a crown
No doubt - Hella Good
Straight up no tell me do you want to love me for ever, oh oh oh
Beatles - She loves you
I´m too sexy
Don´t stop believin
Hey ya
We built this city on rock and roll
Walk like an Egyptian
Wham!
Boston
Fastball - They way
Los Lonely Boys and Santana

Mixed among these is Panamanian songs and other 80´s songs I have never heard. That's it for music, if you don´t use http://www.pandora.com/ for music you should check it out.

Friday, December 01, 2006

Independence day Parade

I'm doing well in my site. I got to celebrate Thanksgiving with 115 other volunteers in the mountains of Volcan Buru which is the tallest mountain (volcano) in Panama. Being 50 degrees it was cold up there, I even got too wear pants and a long sleeve shirt. We stayed in a resort/lodge, I shared a suite with our own wood stove and mini kitchen. There was 5 turkeys, ham, stuffing, gravy even cranberry sauce which I think was imported from the States. The town where we stayed, Cerro Punta, is located near the national park that has virgin rain forest. It is also in the Chiriqui region that supplies most of the fruits and vegetables for the rest of Panama. Most of the veggies we ate where locally grown. For a snack I walked down the road and got fresh strawberries and cream... delicious!

The aqueduct work is progressing along. I hope to start construction this month. Its kinda of strange that there is really not much Christmas here. In some ways it was nice not to be bombarded with the commercialism. Its just not that big of a holiday here. It is also hard because the people in my town don't really have enough money to buy presents for each other. I heard that usually they slaughter a pig and eat it for Christmas day. There are some plans underway to get together for New Years and have a gift exchange.

Right now I am in my closest town, called Almirante. It is a real cross of cultures, there are the indigenous Ngobe, Latinos, and Jamaicans and other people from the islands of the Caribbean. You commonly here their 3 languages, Ngobe (dialecto), Spanish, and Guari Guari. Guari Guari is kinda like how people speak in Jamaica but a bit different. I can{t really understand it at all. The other day I was riding back to my town in the 4x4 taxi, next to a drunk guy who thought that he could speak English, because he knew Guari Guari. This didn't work out at all, and he kept shaking my hand saying 'we are friends' until eventually he passed out.

My friend Brandon has a blog with different pictures. He lives right near me if you want to check it out.
www.panamericanproceeding.blogspot.com

On Tuesday I came to Almirante for Independence day from Spain. There was a huge parade in town. Marching bands from all over came to Almirante. Here is a bunch of pictures.


I'm not sure where this band is from but I like there Panama flags. Some of the bigger bands had cornets like these. I was talking with the band director from my town and told him how I used to play trombone. Later he told me that he wants to get cornets for next year, and that he wanted to know if I could play trombone. So who knows next year maybe I'll be marching.
This is my little sister, Betti. She is a baton twirler. They have all sorts of organized moves they do all organized by whistle. I think that is general the band is really good for the students, because it provides an after school activity, learning structure and discipline and lets them go see new places.




This is my neighbor Sara, she lives about 15 minutes away in the town that I'm building the aqueduct. This guy was sitting next to us on the curb, and was obviously a little drunk. Apparently he was alot drunk and just straight up past out. People kept walking around him like it was no big deal.



This is the band from my town. You can also so most of the teachers that march behind the students. Usually the teachers outfits match the students. The bands is made up of the drums and the Lida's which are like xylophones.